the 20mm 'primer'

People kept asking, so now we have made the 20mm 'PRIMER' version for benchmarking, recruiting at the crag and training

why choose this unlevel edge?

Comfort
Reduced overuse injury risk
More even loading of the fingers
UK sustainable materials and manufacture

There are many reasons to choose this edge, but the overwhelming one is comfort. And this edge feels great to use.

Comfort on an edge means you're more confident to pull harder on it and more likely to feel like training, so you get it done.

Because our fingers are all different lengths and heights a flat edge means our fingers are all in different positions for any given grip type.

This can mean we miss out on training our index and pinky fingers to their maximal and brings possible issues with injury risk, especially when repeated like with finger training.

Rotational forces can be particularly provocative for finger injury. Level edges and organic bump edges still allow rotation and stacking of the fingers together.

The channels the fingers sit in avoid rotational forces being applied to the fingers, but do not allow nestling in a corner.

The edge depth makes it ideal for recruiting and coordinating at the crag as well as more traditional training and benchmarking at home.

My product is made from UK sourced sustainable hardwood and is hand made 9 miles from my office. No air miles here and no plastic (apart from the cord). I also use the most sustainable packaging I can. See here for further info.

Buy

LM

Highly recommended!

I have both edges! I prefer the 20 mm edge for the tindeq progressor and the open 40 mm for floor lifts and rehab - both are lovely and skin friendly

EM

Great!

The edge profile is perfect in depth and spacing. It’s a super nice edge to use, comfy and my fingers feel well supported - the edge is well balanced.

SG

Recommended!

I find the levels of the finger slots are a good size for me and I can feel my third and pinky finger engaging more than they do with another unlevel finger pulling device I have.

what does it do?

Training

The unlevel edge makes you stronger!

Not quite, you still have to put the work in.

The unique shape maximises individual finger flexor recruitment, producing more force (around 25%) than with a flat edge as you are more equally using all the fingers.

To get stronger we need to produce more force.

If you try to get strong on a small edge it's not intense enough to the muscles to promote strength gains and too intense on the joints so we get over use injuries.

Keeping the fingers more separated also forces them to work independently strengthening the connective tissues and hand muscles that form the foundation for your fingers to work from.

Rehab

We now know that controlled loading is the best form of rehab for most injuries, not rest.

The more equalised, less compressive, position the edge puts your hand in means it is ideal for rehabbing pulley injuries, chronically sore knuckles (synovitis/capsulitis) and other injuries of the hand and wrist.

All these conditions require a stable, controlled, position to gradually build up capacity without provoking the injury.

The unlevel edge gives you this whilst also isolating the fingers to encourage stronger connective tissue and hand muscles.

Reduces injury risk

Flat edges make it difficult to get your little finger on. pulling the hand into a position where the middle two fingers are overloaded and the index and pinky fingers are under loaded. See pic below.

The middle joints are bent to 90 degrees, or more, and highly compressed.

The end joints are hyper-extended, compressing the joint and stretching flexor tissues.

We then load this provocative position, heavily, repeatedly, in many forms of climbing training, often leading to over use injuries.

Separating the fingers trains them more individually. This is very important when using complex holds and outdoor climbing in particular where fingers not used to working on their own can quickly become injured.

Science

The shape of this edge evolved from researching thousands of data points and numerous prototypes to make an edge which suits the vast majority of hands.

The unlevel edge loads fingers evenly and encourages a straighter finger - hand - wrist position. This means less likelihood of overuse injury and maximal recruitment. You can pull harder, with less injury risk.

The radius encourages a more open hand grip to reduce compressive forces, but isometric gains at this angle will still carry through to crimping.

The channels are a subtle, but effective, device to force the fingers to work independently and stop sideways rolling. More stability = more force production potential and less injury risk.

Cord mounted means you can pull in a more ergonomic position helping force production through the chain and reducing overuse injuries of the elbow and shoulder.

Buy

this is what we aim to avoid

Repetitive, loading of the fingers in the same, compressive positions.

Whilst small edge training does require input during training (so we can tolerate it), it does not make us stronger. It makes us better on small edges.

If you want to maximally recruit the forearm and finger flexors and extensors (to stabilise) then you need a stable base that enables enough repetition without increasing injury risk.

Get strong and then apply it to your climbing. Training doesn't have to look exactly like the sport. If you train like the sport and perform in the sport you are reducing the variety of loading on your fingers and increasing your injury risk.

dc

Fantastic - so much better and more comfortable than the C4HP one. I currently have a finger injury and just lifted way more than with the C4HP one, delighted with it. It's comfortable to use too.

sc

Thank you, the thought of using a conventional fingerboard for my poor arthritic fingers was a no go. Using your product opened up a new possibility

ld

I really like the unlevel edge, it's super handy for the warm ups as it feels like I'm engaging each individual finger more.

I thought I had pretty weird hand proportions so I was pleasantly surprised that the edge suited me as well as it does.

how to use it

It is pretty simple, but I want people to get the full benefit out of it, so here's what to do. I'd suggest using it to lift from the floor with a Tindeq unit, rather than weights. The Tindeq is much easier to set up and if anything happens you don't drop a weight on your foot.

But it can also just be used to loop around your foot for warming up, or to sling overhead should you wish.

You should expect to pull about 25% more with the 40mm edge.

You can mono, 2 finger, front 3, back 3 just using the slots. No need for extra pockets.

You can change the sling to single, rather than double, to change the angle for drags, or going to a smaller edge.

We don't need to be obsessed with measuring everything all the time. Feel is vital. Feel free to benchmark at appropriate intervals on your usual edge so you know you're progressing, or purchase the 20mm version.

Finger position - equal loading

When using it with both cords attached to an anchor put your fingers as far into the hold as you can. Little finger goes in the lowest slot.

Here my fingertips are at the back of the flat part of the hold AND level with each other.

This loads fingers equally and provides the largest edge possible to enable you to lift more.

Finger position - proportional loading

Use with both cords attached to an anchor, place your little finger in the lowest slot to where the radius sits on the crease of the end joint.

Lay your other fingers naturally on the edge. The depth will allow them to sit where they should. Loaded in this position the outer two are loaded more effectively (and less provocatively) than with an unlevel edge but mid two take more load. They are bigger, stronger, fingers and there is an argument to train them with this in mind.

Finger alignment

From the back your fingers should look like this.

Note how the knuckles at the top are directly above the knuckles below and there is an equal, small, gap between the fingers.

If you have one gap larger than the others, or a noticeable difference between hands, you could have an intrinsic muscle issue. Reduce the weight until you can control the finger and work from there.

The cord means you can adjust the angle to make sure your wrist, elbow and shoulder are also comfortably aligned.

Single cord version

This provides a much more open grip position which is useful for training open grips and for those with issues such as synovitis that need to drastically reduce compressive forces.

Just hold the edge with the radius sitting on the crease of the end joint.