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unlevel edge

The perfect blend of science and art. The unlevel edge will help get you stronger AND reduce your risk of injury at the same time.

 

 Created by a climbing specialist physiotherapist from 1000's of data sets and research and hand crafted for comfort in sustainable hardwood by Paul from Crusher holds, making wooden holds for climbers since 2008.​ 

discounts

Each purchase entitles you to:

  • £10 discount on the Ebook, or physical copy, of my best-selling book 'The Self-Rehabbed Climber'.

  • £15 discount on a face to face, or remote, assessment.

Codes will be sent on purchase.

how to use it

It is pretty simple, but I want people to get the full benefit out of it, so here's what to do. I'd suggest using it to lift from the floor with a Tindeq unit, or a lifting pin and weights. But it can just be used to loop around your foot for warming up, or to sling overhead should you wish. 

You should expect to pull about 25% more with this edge.

You can mono, 2 finger, front 3, back 3 just using the slots. No need for extra pockets.

Most importantly - if you wish to reduce the edge size just move your fingers back until it feel like you're trying at an 8/10 effort level for the weight you've selected. 

You can change the sling to single, rather than double, to change the angle for drags, or going to a smaller edge.

 We don't need to be obsessed with measuring everything all the time. Feel is vital. Feel free to benchmark at appropriate intervals on your usual edge so you know you're progressing. 

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what does it do?

this is what we aim to avoid

Repetitive, loading of the fingers in the same, compressive positions. 

Whilst small edge training does require input during training (so we can tolerate it), it does not make us stronger. It makes us better on small edges.

If you want to maximally recruit the forearm and finger flexors and extensors (to stabilise) then you need a stable base that enables enough repetition without increasing injury risk.

Get strong and then apply it to your climbing. Training doesn't have to look exactly like the sport. If you train like the sport and perform in the sport you are reducing the variety of loading on your fingers and increasing your injury risk.

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the future

Multi block - large un-level edge, 15 mm edges and unlevel pinch block combined 
 
Bespoke - 3D printed for those who need an individual fit
Wall mounted - for traditional hangs
 
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